This one’s for my mother. She couldn’t ride the waves with me. But I’ll ride them for her and I can remember the good times. She gave me a love for the ocean and for surfing. It’s always been our thing. So now when I surf I can see her here smiling, laughing and racing. It makes me smile.
I like remembering moms laugh. I miss it so much. But when I am surfing I remember her laugh. It seems like only yesterday when I spent my summer with her. It’s hard to believe that was a year ago now. So much has changed.
Dad asked me, “Why do you run off to the ocean so much?”
I said, “To remember mom. I can hear her laughing and I see her happy out there on the waves.”
He said, “You’re so much like her.”
To which I replied, “Thank you.”
God I hope it’s true that I’m a lot like my mother. She’s a really great lady, and a better friend. It’s hard to see her when she isn’t smiling. But out here, she smiles for me, I hear her laugh and I remember all the good times.
I miss you mom. I want you home on the waves with me again. I miss your laugh. I miss our smile. Until they return I will find them here. In as you have called it Gods Arena. For you surfing touches the face of God. For me it shows me my moms.
Exhilaration and humiliation
From the moment my board meets water
I can feel my heart race
From the moment my body meats board
I can feel the sun on my face
Paddle hard to meet the horizon
Paddle until worlds end
Paddle faster and race to meet the waves
Paddle until waves bend
Every stroke and every splash
Brings the heart alive
Faster, harder, deeper
Every stroke survive
The shoreline fades and time stands still
For a moment you wait
Waves are calling from the deep
Another wave your date
The perfect wave to catch
I know exhilaration
Wipeout only half the ride
I know humiliation
Luckily for me redemption is so close
Another wave, another date
The ocean can be unpredictable
But it knows no spite or hate
Right the board and paddle out
Under the clouds above
For now I wait for the perfect wave
The ocean sends me love
It’s strange to think my mom is right here. But she still seems far away. I’m not used to seeing her not smile. I’m not used to seeing her so down. I hold onto the hope that soon we’ll be make new memories on the waves. Soon I’ll see her smile return and we’ll race until the sunsets and laugh about it till dawn.
I miss you mommy, please come back to me.