People often ask me what surfing means to me and why I love it so much. I tried to explain the freedom i feel, the balance of nature and the thrill of riding the waves. When i climb atop a wave it’s you against yourself to increase the thrill and exhilaration of competing against yourself and your previous best ride. You against nature as you attempt to anticipate the motion below all the while digging deep into the wave to increase the speed of the ride.
It’s about the ride and for that moment there is nothing more. Life is simple and clear, the sun, wind and ocean all about this moment and this ride. You lose focus on everything but the ride or you fall into the unforgiving ocean and become wrestled below its surface.
That is why I surf to lose myself for one moment, focused and clear of purpose. Anticipating the moment where a single mistake sends you below the surface. All the while enjoying the moment at one with nature before the face of god.
The power of nature beneath my feet, a million tons of water.
Yet as I ride upon it’s crest I know I’m not it’s master.
For a moment I and nature become as one.
The sun in my face, the wind at my call.
At one with nature and one step from disaster.
For a moment I and the ocean exist beneath the sun.
Thrilling and fast approaching land, your spirit can not fall.
One misstep is all it takes to end this final ride.
For a moment I do not feel so odd.
Balance as the earth moves, quickly to the shore.
Quickly as the ocean moves the earth from side to side.
For a moment I see the face of god.
The ocean below and the heavens above, enjoy the ride.
Balance is key upon her crest, perched upon my board.
Beneath skies of grey, red and blue.
Forever it seems upon the crest, the ride goes on and on.
For that moment board, ocean and surfer are one.
In the blink of an eye the waves swallows you.
This ride has come to an end but the next is one wave away.